fashion week: ukraine
Ukraine. A country that is currently riddled with corruption, war, and a looming financial crisis. Noticeably, the fashion weeks that have presided in this country show a clear distinction between those that are struggling, and those that are not. During Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days & this most recent Ukranian Fashion Week, the wealthy elite were seated in the front rows while the young designers, despite their financial struggle, created compelling lines that reflected the current atmosphere and attitude of the country.
The young people of the city who are inspired by these looks can't afford their more expensive counterparts, such as the looks inspired by Vetements, but they can head over to a secondhand bazaar in town and recreate the look for themselves. This is oftentimes how many designers get their start in Ukraine.
Several designers took to the stage to showcase their collections. Here are some of the highlights from Ukranian Fashion Week.
Ukraine Spring 2017
Founder: Artem Klimchuk
Year established: 2011
Known for: Handmade knits and slinky slip dresses
Spring 2017 inspiration: The theme was how intellectuals during the Soviet Union perceived beauty & fantasy through film. Klimchuk's handmade knits made a cameo, this time with embellishments, as did plenty of curve-skimming, silk cocktail dresses.
Founder: Ivan Frolov
Year founded: 2011
Known for: Lingerie, robes, and a post-Soviet Union influence
Spring 2017 inspiration: Karaoke, Japan, shibori, and the anime character Sailor Moon
Founder: Jean Gritsfeldt
Year established: 2013
Known for: Embroidered outerwear and evening gowns.
Spring 2017 inspiration: Gritsfeldt wove together themes about the earth, using animal prints, and shimmering materials designed to attract sunlight.
Founders: Natalia Kamenska and Olesya Kononova
Year established: 2008
Known for: Robe dressing, suiting, and slip dresses
Spring 2017 inspiration: A predator and its prey. Masculine pieces, like elongated button ups, had large embroidered patches of tigers and wolves, while more feminine, figure-hugging pieces such as a slip dress featured conversational prints of deer and flowers.
Founder: Nadya Dzyak
Year established: 2008
Known for: Colorful knitwear
Spring 2017 inspiration: The work of Canadian street artist Dan Bergeron and blooming magnolias set a cheerful tone. Fun frocks had sculpted sleeves resembling petals, while dresses showed Dzyak’s signature colorblocking.
Founder: Lilia Poustovit
Year established: 1998
Known for: A popular veteran label in Ukraine, Poustovit is well known for eye-catching prints, especially florals, but recently designer Lilia Poustovit strayed far from her bright, feminine aesthetic and collaborated with the brand Tago to create a commercial take on the red-hot post-Soviet trend.
Spring 2017 inspiration: The collection brought together sports and romance, and a bit of the Soviet film The Children of Captain Grant. Safe, pretty skirts had jersey stripes, while boating jackets and Poustovit’s signature print dresses were worn with track jackets.
Founder: Sasha Kanevski
Year established: 2010
Known for: A luxury take on streetwear
Spring 2017 inspiration: Sasha Kanevski explored the subculture of neighborhood boys who spend their free time customizing Soviet cars.
Founder: Yana Chervinska
Year established: 2012
Known for: Creating pieces out of vintage fabrics from the Soviet Union.
Spring 2017 inspiration: According to the designer there was “no inspiration, except for sad love and dark roses.” Look out for the bubble gum–pink crushed-velvet dress printed with stenciled black roses and a slouchy double-breasted pantsuit in burgundy.
I myself was not too familiar with Ukranian Fashion Week up until I saw the Vogue snapchat story covering it. There's a number of different fashion weeks throughout the world and throughout the year that aren't given as much attention as places like New York, Paris, Milan, or London. These designers are not only incredibly noteworthy, but also deserve the same recognition for their talent. Open your mind and learn something new about a culture, whether it be fashion related or not.